Cobaia sits in a slightly odd corner of Alvalade, surrounded by evangelical churches and those slightly worn-out 40s/50s buildings. It immediately stands out with a modern, cool-looking space that feels dropped into the neighborhood on purpose. The menu follows the now-global curse of “small plates to share,” a format that has already taken over cities like London and New York. Here, it shows up as modern or lightly reworked Portuguese dishes. The food is good, no doubt, but prices feel a bit ambitious for what actually lands on the table. One annoying detail: our shrimp dish came with some guts, which is not the kind of authenticity anyone is looking for. The kitchen could be more careful there. Also, service from the floor is friendly and welcoming, but the kitchen was noticeably slow. The crowd is almost entirely local, which in Lisbon these days is still a very good sign. Worth checking out, but go in knowing the deal: small portions, full-size prices, and expectations best kept realistic.
From this list
A few wines worth ordering — not the full list.